The London issue, November 2026
London
London operates as a collection of distinct urban villages stitched together by an ancient, subterranean transit network.
Plan your London trip
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Guests & rooms
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The London reading list
All 21 London stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Crown Jewels first at the Tower of London in October 2026
Your first hour belongs to the Jewel House, so allow three hours inside the walls. Adult entry online is £37.
Rowan Kelleher
Walking Westminster and St James's in London
A one-way route from the Abbey up Whitehall to Piccadilly, with the prices, opening days and booking windows that set the order you walk it.
Rowan Kelleher
The Best Free Things to Do in London
A calm, walkable 2026 guide to London's best free days — world-class museums, high-up views you only have to book in time, and a riverside stretch that costs nothing but shoe leather.
Rowan Kelleher
London's Buried Stations Are Still Down There
A below-ground tour of the Tube's abandoned stations, wartime shelters and sealed platforms — booked properly, in 2026, one small group at a time.
Rowan Kelleher
London's Best Street Food Markets
A market-by-market guide to eating well across London in 2026 — where to anchor your day, where to shelter from the rain, and where the crowds are worth it.
Rahim Chowdhury
More from the London issue
The Best Sunday Roasts in London
Rowan Kelleher
Where to Find London's Best Afternoon Tea
Rowan Kelleher
London's Best Hidden Gardens and Green Spaces
Rowan Kelleher
Walking Bloomsbury, London's museum district
Rowan Kelleher
Walking Greenwich, London from the ship to the Meridian
Rowan Kelleher
The Thames at night: a river cruise after dark
Rowan Kelleher
Tours and tickets
London's Tower Bridge in October and whether £18 is worth it
Rowan Kelleher
Tours and tickets
Dodging the Buckingham Palace Queues in London, October 2026
Rowan Kelleher
Camden Town in London, from the lock to the last gig
Rowan Kelleher
The City of London on foot, Ludgate Hill to the Tower
Rowan Kelleher
London's Canal Life: The Regent's Canal from Little Venice to the Limehouse Basin
Rowan Kelleher
Tours and tickets
Walking Soho's Historic Streets in London This October
Rowan Kelleher
London's Brutalist Utopias on Foot
Rowan Kelleher
Brixton, south London, from the market to the windmill
Rowan Kelleher
Pie, Mash and Liquor: London's Most Stubborn Meal
Rowan Kelleher
London's Mews: The Stable Lanes Behind the Grand Squares
Rowan Kelleher
An insider’s read on London
From its origins as the Roman settlement of Londinium to the capital of a global empire, London has repeatedly burned down, been bombed, and rebuilt itself. This history of constant reinvention has left an architectural collage where 12th-century churches sit in the shadows of brutalist estates and high-tech towers. The local character is polite but reserved, marked by a dry wit and a shared resilience to the daily grind of city life.
London operates as a collection of distinct urban villages stitched together by an ancient, subterranean transit network. It is a city defined by friction: medieval alleyways terminate at the bases of hyper-modern glass skyscrapers, and centuries-old royal parks border neighborhoods shaped by waves of global migration. The pace is relentless, the scale is intimidating, and the weather is a constant topic of conversation, yet it remains one of the world's premier cultural and financial engines.
From our London guide
Ten neighbourhoods, ten ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Soho & Covent Garden
Those who want to be in the center of the action and do not mind constant crowds, street noise, and premium prices.
The historic heart of London's entertainment, theater, and nightlife scenes, packed with restaurants, historic pubs, and independent boutiques.
Where to stay Look for boutique hotels tucked away on the quieter side streets of Soho or near Seven Dials.
Stay in Soho & Covent Garden
Shoreditch & Spitalfields
Travelers seeking a contemporary, arts-focused vibe, though the area can feel overly commercialized and loud on weekend nights.
A former industrial district turned creative hub, known for its street art, vintage markets, independent coffee shops, and nightlife.
Where to stay Industrial-chic loft hotels and trendy boutique properties near Liverpool Street or Shoreditch High Street.
Stay in Shoreditch & Spitalfields
Kensington & Chelsea
Families and travelers seeking a quiet, safe, and elegant base, though it lacks late-night dining and nightlife options.
An affluent, residential area characterized by grand Victorian stucco townhouses, quiet garden squares, and major museums.
Where to stay Classic luxury hotels and upscale townhouses near South Kensington or Sloane Square.
Stay in Kensington & Chelsea
Southwark & Bermondsey
Food lovers and walkers who want easy access to the riverfront, though the areas nearest to London Bridge get highly congested.
A historic riverside district that has evolved from industrial docklands into a premier culinary and cultural destination.
Where to stay Modern business hotels and converted warehouse boutiques near London Bridge or Bermondsey Street.
Stay in Southwark & Bermondsey
Greenwich
A self-contained riverside day out combining maritime history, royal architecture, a famous market, a huge park and exceptional skyline views. Best from late spring through early autumn; Greenwich Market runs throughout the week, with the liveliest atmosphere at weekends.
Stay in Greenwich
Westminster & St James's
The essential royal and political London circuit, with monumental landmarks, ceremonial streets, parks and grand galleries within easy walking distance. Year-round; palace interiors and ceremonial events are especially popular from spring to early autumn.
Stay in Westminster & St James's
Camden Town
A high-energy half-day of alternative shopping, canal walks, live music and some of London's most famous street food. Busiest at weekends; summer evenings are best for the canal and outdoor drinking, while the market operates daily.
Stay in Camden Town
City of London
A compact historic district where Roman ruins, medieval churches, the Tower of London and dramatic modern viewpoints sit among atmospheric lanes. Best on weekdays for the full office-district atmosphere, or on quiet weekends for empty lanes and easier sightseeing.
Stay in City of London
Brixton
A lively south London hub for Caribbean and global food, Black British cultural history, markets, record shops and live music. Strong year-round; evenings suit live music and nightlife, while weekends are best for browsing the markets and eating.
Stay in Brixton
Bloomsbury
A calm, central culture district built around world-class collections, literary history, garden squares and the British Museum. Good year-round, especially in poor weather because of its concentration of major indoor museums; garden squares are best in spring.
Stay in BloomsburyBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in London, with live prices from Viator.
The Great British Pub Walking Tour: London
from $44
Private Tour to Stonehenge, Bath and The Cotswolds
from $1347
The StrummerWalk
from $37
Explore Biblical Artifacts at the British Museum
from $76
Private Classic London Taxi Tour
from $537
The National Gallery of London - Exclusive Guided Museum Tour
from $120
London Private Black Cab Tour: 3 memorable hours/hotel pick-up
from $422
A craft beer tasting tour of the Bermondsey Beer Mile
from $67
Prices from Viator; we may earn a commission when you book — at no extra cost to you. Tours are sold and operated by Viator, the merchant of record. Ratings are collected by Viator and Tripadvisor.
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The London guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
J Sheekey
This legendary red-fronted restaurant has served West End theatergoers for over a century, offering classic fish dishes in wood-paneled rooms.
Signature: The J Sheekey Fish Pie
Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill
A historic institution operating since 1916, where expert shuckers serve native oysters at a marble counter.
Signature: Dressed Portland Crab
Parsons
A simple, tile-walled neighborhood spot serving exceptionally fresh, unpretentious British seafood.
Signature: Potted Shrimp croquettes
Orasay
An elegant neighborhood bistro focusing on organic produce and seafood inspired by the Western Isles of Scotland.
Signature: Grilled Isle of Mull scallops
Westerns Laundry
A low-intervention wine bar and restaurant serving a daily changing seafood menu in a minimalist, converted garage.
Signature: Baked whole sea bass with wild garlic
Sweetings
A historic lunch-only seafood spot unchanged since the Victorian era, popular with financial district traditionalists.
Signature: West Mersea oysters and potted shrimps
Angler
A Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant offering refined, artfully plated seafood with views over the City.
Signature: Line-caught wild sea bass with caviar
The Wright Brothers
A lively oyster specialist located right next to the market, sourcing directly from their own wholesale business.
Signature: Platter of Jersey Rocks and native oysters
Hawksmoor Seven Dials
Widely credited with reviving the British steakhouse, sourcing ethically reared, dry-aged native breeds cooked over real charcoal.
Signature: Bone-in Ribeye with bone marrow gravy
Blacklock Soho
Located in a basement former brothel, serving exceptional, sustainably sourced chops piled high on flatbread at accessible prices.
Signature: The All-In (a mountain of beef, pork, and lamb chops)
The Quality Chop House
A historic dining room dating to 1869, featuring Victorian wooden booths and a modern menu centered on premium British meats.
Signature: Confit Potatoes
Smokestak
An industrial, wood-fired restaurant serving intensely smoky, slow-cooked meats with a cult following.
Signature: Beef brisket bun with pickled red chili
Flat Iron
A highly popular, no-reservations spot offering a single, exceptionally priced steak cut served with a signature cleaver.
Signature: The Flat Iron Steak with beef dripping chips
Brat
Inspired by the open-fire cooking of the Basque Country, utilizing premium British ingredients cooked over cherry wood embers.
Signature: Whole Turbot cooked over fire
Coal Office
A collaboration between chef Assaf Granit and designer Tom Dixon, serving spiced, grilled Middle Eastern meats in a striking canal-side space.
Signature: Machneyuda's Polenta
Temper Soho
A subterranean restaurant built around a massive open fire pit where chefs butcher and grill meat in front of diners.
Signature: Smoked beef brisket tacos
Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte
A Parisian-style bistro serving a single, highly consistent menu of steak frites with a secret herb sauce.
Signature: Steak frites with secret green sauce
St. John
Fergus Henderson’s legendary restaurant established the modern nose-to-tail dining movement in a whitewashed former smokehouse.
Signature: Roasted Bone Marrow with parsley salad
The Marksman
A refined East End pub serving elevated British classics, widely regarded as one of the best dining pubs in the city.
Signature: Beef barley bun with horseradish cream
Noble Rot
An atmospheric townhouse wine bar serving exceptional European-influenced British bistro dishes alongside a world-class wine list.
Signature: Slipsole in smoked butter
The Anchor & Hope
One of London's original gastropubs, famous for its communal, rustic sharing roasts and lively atmosphere.
Signature: Slow-braised shoulder of lamb for sharing
Rochelle Canteen
A secluded oasis in a school yard, serving exceptionally simple, seasonal British dishes that let the ingredients shine.
Signature: Pheasant and trotter pie
The Harwood Arms
London's only Michelin-starred pub, focusing on wild game, British seafood, and locally sourced produce.
Signature: Venison Scotch Egg
The French House
A historic Soho pub with a tiny upstairs dining room serving classic French-British bistro fare under chef Neil Borthwick.
Signature: Confit garlic on toast
Sabor
A Michelin-starred Spanish tapas restaurant featuring a lively ground-floor counter and an upstairs wood-fired oven room.
Signature: Segovian suckling pig
The Ledbury
A three-Michelin-starred institution known for its inventive modern British cuisine and focus on wild game and foraging.
Signature: Warm Bantam Egg with truffle and wild mushrooms
Core by Clare Smyth
Clare Smyth’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant delivers elegant, refined plates celebrating humble British ingredients.
Signature: Potato and Roe
Ikoyi
A highly innovative, two-Michelin-starred restaurant that uses West African spices to transform British micro-seasonal ingredients.
Signature: Smoked Jollof Rice with crab
The Ritz Restaurant
Classic French fine dining served in one of the world's most spectacular, gilded, and chandelier-lit dining rooms.
Signature: Bresse Duck 'Arts de la Table' (carved tableside)
Kitchen Table
An intimate, 19-seat counter-only experience where diners watch chefs prepare a multi-course, ingredient-led tasting menu.
Signature: Daily changing multi-course tasting menu
Da Terra
Located in the historic Town Hall Hotel, this two-starred spot blends Latin American flavors with Italian and British influences.
Signature: Moqueca-inspired fish course
Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library)
A theatrical, multi-room venue where the fine dining room holds three Michelin stars for its complex French gastronomy.
Signature: Grand Dessert selection
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
A two-Michelin-starred exploration of British culinary history, with recipes dating back to the 14th century reinvented for modern palates.
Signature: Meat Fruit (chicken liver parfait disguised as a mandarin)
Roti King
A legendary basement joint serving authentic, flaky Malaysian roti canai and rich curries to a constant queue.
Signature: Roti Canai with mutton curry
Padella
A counter-only pasta bar serving exceptionally fresh, hand-rolled pasta plates at highly accessible prices.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe
Bao Soho
Pioneered the city's obsession with fluffy, steamed Taiwanese buns, served in a minimalist, wood-paneled space.
Signature: Classic Pork BAO
Silk Road
A South London institution serving fiery, authentic Xinjiang-style Chinese food, hand-pulled noodles, and skewers.
Signature: Big Plate Chicken with hand-pulled noodles
Beigel Bake
A historic, 24-hour East End bakery serving hot, freshly baked Jewish-style bagels piled high with salt beef.
Signature: Hot salt beef bagel with mustard and gherkin
Dishoom
An loving homage to the historic Irani cafes of Bombay, famous for its lively atmosphere and consistent, spiced dishes.
Signature: House Black Daal and Bacon Naan Roll
Singburi
A family-run, cash-only Thai cafe with a legendary blackboard of fiery, authentic regional specials.
Signature: Moo Krob (crispy pork belly with holy basil)
Koya Soho
A simple Japanese noodle bar serving some of the best freshly made, springy udon noodles in the city.
Signature: English Breakfast Udon (bacon, egg, and mushroom)
Bleecker Burger
A no-nonsense burger joint focusing on dry-aged beef, perfect sear, and simple ingredients.
Signature: Double Cheeseburger
Mildreds Soho
A pioneer of modern vegetarian dining in London, serving vibrant, globally inspired plant-based dishes since 1988.
Signature: Sri Lankan Sweet Potato Curry
Gauthier Soho
A classical French fine-dining townhouse that made the bold, pioneering move to become 100% vegan.
Signature: The Grand Vegan Tasting Menu
Tendril
A 'mostly vegan' kitchen serving highly creative, vegetable-forward dishes in a relaxed, stylish setting.
Signature: Chipotle grilled oyster mushroom with peanut sauce
Bubala Spitalfields
A vibrant, fully vegetarian Middle Eastern restaurant serving bold, spiced sharing plates that make you forget meat exists.
Signature: Halloumi with black seed honey
Mallow
A 100% plant-based, low-waste restaurant from the creators of Mildreds, located in the heart of the historic food market.
Signature: Son Dumplings with spicy soy sauce
The Gate Hammersmith
A long-running vegetarian institution serving a diverse menu of globally influenced plant-based dishes since 1989.
Signature: Wild Mushroom Risotto Cake
Holy Carrot
A stylish, contemporary plant-based restaurant offering refined, artfully presented dishes using ethically sourced ingredients.
Signature: Smoked Tofu Tartare
Wulf & Lamb
A plant-based comfort food spot famous for its indulgent, vegan takes on classic diner and pub dishes.
Signature: Wulf Mac 'n' Cheese
After dark
Nightlife
Fabric
A world-famous electronic music institution featuring a legendary 'bodysonic' dancefloor that vibrates with the bass.
Ministry of Sound
A pioneering multi-room house and dance venue featuring one of the most powerful, custom-built sound systems in the world.
Fold
An industrial, community-focused techno club with a 24-hour license, located in an East London warehouse.
Phonox
An intimate, single-room club with a stellar sound system, focusing on hosting one world-class DJ for the entire night.
KOKO
A spectacular, multi-tiered historic theater that has been beautifully restored into a state-of-the-art live music and club venue.
XOYO
A popular two-story club in East London hosting regular DJ residencies from top-tier electronic music artists.
Village Underground
A renovated Victorian warehouse topped with recycled subway cars, hosting eclectic club nights and live gigs.
The Jazz Cafe
An intimate, historic venue hosting live jazz, soul, hip-hop, and global beats, transitioning into a club night on weekends.
Connaught Bar
Consistently ranked among the best bars in the world, famous for its bespoke martini trolley wheeled directly to your table.
Lyaness
An innovative cocktail bar by award-winning bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana, featuring experimental ingredients overlooking the Thames.
Satan's Whiskers
A low-key neighborhood cocktail bar serving exceptionally well-made classic drinks to a hip-hop soundtrack.
Bar Termini
A tiny, 1950s-style Italian espresso and aperitivo bar serving expertly formulated, bottled negronis.
The Ned
A massive, glamorous bar space housed in a former bank hall, featuring live jazz on a central bandstand.
Netil 360
A laid-back, astroturfed rooftop bar offering panoramic views of the East London skyline and local craft beers.
Dukes Bar
The historic hotel bar that inspired Ian Fleming's 'shaken, not stirred' line, famous for its incredibly potent martinis.
Swift Soho
A dual-concept bar: a lively, bright ground floor for quick aperitifs, and a cozy, dark basement for whiskey flights.
Nightjar
A subterranean speakeasy-style bar serving highly theatrical, complex cocktails alongside live vintage jazz.
Ronnie Scott's
The legendary basement jazz club hosting world-class international acts since 1959, where whispering during sets is strictly discouraged.
The Windmill
A gritty, legendary pub that serves as the incubator for London’s modern post-punk and indie-rock scenes.
Union Chapel
A working Victorian Gothic church that doubles as an atmospheric live music venue with spectacular acoustics.
The Roundhouse
A spectacular former mid-19th-century railway turntable shed that now hosts major international music acts.
Rough Trade East
An iconic independent record store hosting regular in-store gigs, album launch shows, and signing sessions.
Omeara
An intimate, beautifully distressed live music venue curated by Mumford & Sons' Ben Lovett, focusing on emerging indie talent.
The Lexington
A classic London pub downstairs with a fantastic, loud indie-rock venue upstairs specializing in American craft beers.
Barbican Hall
A brutalist architectural masterpiece hosting world-class classical, electronic, and global music performances.
EartH (Evolutionary Arts Hackney)
A reclaimed Art Deco cinema that has been converted into a multi-disciplinary arts space hosting eclectic live music.
Art & history
Culture
British Museum
Houses a vast collection of global antiquities, including the Rosetta Stone and Parthenon Sculptures, beneath a striking glass-and-steel roof.
Natural History Museum
An iconic Romanesque 'cathedral to nature' housing spectacular dinosaur galleries and a blue whale skeleton in the Hintze Hall.
Science Museum
Interactive galleries charting the history of scientific advancement, space exploration, and industrial technology.
Sir John Soane's Museum
The eccentric, beautifully preserved historic house of the neo-classical architect, packed with antiquities, art, and curiosities.
V&A (Victoria and Albert Museum)
The world's leading museum of art, design, and performance, housing over 2.3 million objects spanning 5,000 years.
Imperial War Museum
Moving, detailed exhibits charting modern conflict from WWI to the present day, featuring a powerful Holocaust Exhibition.
Design Museum
A contemporary museum dedicated to product, industrial, graphic, fashion, and architectural design.
Museum of London Docklands
Housed in a historic sugar warehouse, detailing London's history as a major port and its role in the transatlantic slave trade.
Dennis Severs' House
A unique, immersive historic house designed as a time capsule of a Huguenot silk weaver's family from the 18th century.
Tower of London
A historic fortress, royal palace, and notorious prison dating back to 1066, housing the spectacular Crown Jewels.
St. Paul's Cathedral
Sir Christopher Wren's masterpiece featuring an iconic dome that has dominated the London skyline for over 300 years.
Westminster Abbey
The royal coronation church since 1066 and the burial site of monarchs, poets, and scientists like Isaac Newton.
Tower Bridge
An iconic Victorian suspension bridge with high-level glass floor walkways offering views over the River Thames.
The Shard
Western Europe's tallest building, offering panoramic views extending up to 40 miles on a clear day.
Houses of Parliament & Big Ben
The spectacular Neo-Gothic seat of the British government, featuring the iconic Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben).
Buckingham Palace
The official London residence of the monarch, featuring the famous Changing of the Guard ceremony.
Royal Observatory Greenwich
The historic home of Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian line, situated on a hill in Greenwich Park.
Battersea Power Station
A monumental, restored Art Deco industrial landmark that has been converted into a major shopping and dining hub.
Tate Modern
Housed in the monumental former Bankside Power Station, displaying international modern and contemporary art.
National Gallery
Houses one of the world's greatest collections of Western European paintings from the 13th to the 19th centuries.
Tate Britain
The national gallery of British art from 1500 to the present day, housing the world's largest collection of works by J.M.W. Turner.
Royal Academy of Arts
An independent, artist-run institution hosting major, high-profile temporary exhibitions and the famous Summer Exhibition.
Serpentine Galleries
Two contemporary art galleries situated in Kensington Gardens, famous for commissioning a unique architectural pavilion every summer.
Whitechapel Gallery
A historic gallery that has championed modern and contemporary artists, famously premiering Picasso's Guernica to the UK.
Saatchi Gallery
A contemporary art gallery known for introducing emerging, young artists and hosting provocative exhibitions.
National Portrait Gallery
Houses portraits of historically significant and famous British people, recently undergoing a major, beautiful refurbishment.
Hayward Gallery
A brutalist architectural landmark hosting adventurous, large-scale contemporary art exhibitions.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
April to May brings crisp air, blooming daffodils in the royal parks, and outdoor markets coming back to life, though light rain is always a possibility.
Summer
June to August offers long daylight hours and lively park culture, but the Underground can become uncomfortably hot, and central tourist areas are highly congested.
Autumn
September to November sees the city turn golden, with cooler temperatures, the launch of the major autumn art exhibitions, and fewer crowds.
Winter
December to March is cold and dark by 4:00 PM, but the city compensates with festive light displays, ice rinks, and quiet, warm museums.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
From Heathrow, the Elizabeth Line offers a fast, mid-priced route to central London, while the Heathrow Express is faster but more expensive, and the Piccadilly Line is the slowest, cheapest option. From Gatwick, Thameslink trains provide direct access to the City and Blackfriars, while the Gatwick Express runs directly to Victoria.
Public transit
The Underground (Tube), Overground, and double-decker buses form a comprehensive network. Tap-to-pay using a contactless bank card, phone, or smart watch is universal and automatically calculates the cheapest daily fare cap.
Passes & tickets
Physical Oyster Cards are largely obsolete for short-term visitors; using your own contactless payment card or mobile device is the most efficient method and operates on the same price bands.
On foot
While individual neighborhoods like Soho, Covent Garden, and Mayfair are highly walkable, the city is too vast to traverse entirely on foot. Walking is best used for exploring localized areas rather than traveling between distant districts.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Always stand on the right of the escalator on the Tube.
- Let passengers off the train completely before attempting to board.
- Avoid making direct eye contact on the Tube; locals prefer quiet, personal space.
- Queue (line up) orderly and never attempt to cut in.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Avoid the Heathrow Express unless you are in a massive rush; the Elizabeth Line is nearly as fast and costs half the price.
- Download the Citymapper app; it is far more accurate for London transit delays and route planning than standard map apps.
- Book popular restaurants and West End theatre tickets weeks in advance; walk-ins are increasingly rare in central London.
- Avoid taking black cabs for long cross-city journeys; traffic gridlock means the meter will run high, and the Tube is almost always faster.
- If visiting Borough Market, go on a Thursday or Friday morning; Saturdays are intensely crowded and difficult to navigate.
- Always carry a compact umbrella or a light waterproof jacket; London weather is notoriously unpredictable even on sunny days.
Before you go
London FAQs
Do I need cash in London?
No, London is almost entirely cashless; contactless cards or mobile pay are accepted everywhere, even by street performers and buses.
Is the tap water safe to drink?
Yes, tap water in London is perfectly safe, though it is hard water and may taste slightly chalky to some.
How do I pay for the Tube?
Simply tap your contactless bank card, phone, or smart watch on the yellow reader at the barriers; there is no need to buy a ticket.
Are London museums really free?
Yes, the permanent collections of major national museums like the British Museum and Tate Modern are completely free, though special exhibitions require tickets.
Do I need to tip in restaurants?
A discretionary 12.5% service charge is usually added to restaurant bills; if it is included, you do not need to tip extra.